FORD FIESTA ST MK8 LEFT LED HEADLIGHT 2022 ON GENUINE N1BB13E017BG

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FORD FIESTA ST MK8 LEFT LED HEADLIGHT 2022 ON GENUINE N1BB13E017BG - part number N1BB13E017BG

FORD FIESTA ST MK8 LEFT LED HEADLIGHT 2022 ON GENUINE N1BB13E017BG - part number N1BB13E017BG - view 2 FORD FIESTA ST MK8 LEFT LED HEADLIGHT 2022 ON GENUINE N1BB13E017BG - part number N1BB13E017BG - view 3 FORD FIESTA ST MK8 LEFT LED HEADLIGHT 2022 ON GENUINE N1BB13E017BG - part number N1BB13E017BG - view 4

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About part number N1BB13E017BG

A headlight illuminates the road ahead and ensures the vehicle remains visible to other road users. As an LED light unit, it forms part of the exterior lighting system and connects directly to the vehicle's main wiring loom. When operating correctly, it provides a clear beam pattern controlled from the dashboard switch on the left-hand side of the vehicle.

To ensure this component is correct for your vehicle, you must match the part number N1BB13E017BG directly with the number stamped or printed on your existing unit. Manufacturer part numbers are typically printed on a sticker or moulded into the plastic housing on the rear or underside of the headlight assembly. Matching this exact number is the only way to confirm correct fitment.

Headlights are usually replaced following impact damage, housing cracks that allow moisture ingress, or internal failure of the lighting elements. When fitting a replacement headlight, you may need additional mounting screws or clips, and the beam alignment should be checked and adjusted after installation.

  • Part type: Headlight Assemblies.
  • Specification: mounting style Screws; lighting technology LED; country of origin United Kingdom.
  • Position on the vehicle: Left.

About this kind of part: headlamps

A headlamp is a sealed unit holding the main beam, the dipped beam, the daytime running light and usually the indicator. The light source is either a bulb, a gas discharge capsule or an array of light-emitting diodes, and the three are not interchangeable within one lamp housing. The lens is polycarbonate with a hard coat on the outside, the housing is plastic, and the whole unit hangs on moulded lugs that bolt to the slam panel and the inner wing.

Why people replace one

  • An impact has broken the lens or cracked the housing, so water gets in and the unit mists up.
  • The hard coat on the lens has broken down and the surface has gone yellow and cloudy, which cuts the light output and fails an inspection.
  • A mounting lug has snapped, which is common because the lugs are the first thing to give in a light front-end knock. The lamp then sits low or loose.
  • Condensation sits inside the lens after rain, because a seal or a breather has failed.
  • The adjusting mechanism behind the lamp has stripped, so the beam cannot be set.

Fitting it

  • A headlamp is reached with the front bumper cover off on most cars, and is held by three or four bolts.
  • The beam must be aimed on a proper beam setter after fitting. A lamp that has been swapped and not aimed will dazzle oncoming traffic and will fail an inspection.
  • The adjusters are plastic and are easier to set with the lamp loosely held before the bolts are tightened.
  • If a mounting lug on your own lamp has broken, the repair brackets sold for the job are a temporary measure rather than a fix.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number on the lamp. Within one model the bulb, discharge and diode versions all share the same body shape and will plug in, but the car will not light them correctly.
  • A lamp built for a market that drives on the left and a lamp built for a market that drives on the right have different beam patterns, even where the part looks identical. The pattern is marked on the lens.
  • The lens marking also records the approval, and comparing that marking with your own lamp is a quick way to confirm the two are the same specification.
  • Count the connector pins and compare the block shape with your own lamp before buying.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — On a printed label on the back of the housing, or moulded into the plastic. This is the number to match.
B Lens marking — Etched into the lens itself: the approval marks and the beam pattern. Compare it with the marking on your own lamp.
C Mounting lugs — The moulded arms that bolt the lamp to the car. Check each one is whole, because a snapped lug is the most common fault and the hardest to see.
D Connector block — The plug on the back. Count the pins and compare the shape, as a different light source means a different block.
E Lens surface — Look across the lens at an angle rather than straight on. Fine crazing and a breakdown of the hard coat show up in a raking light and vanish in a flat one.
F Housing and seal — The joint where the lens meets the housing, and the rubber covers on the back. Water gets in where these have been disturbed.

This section describes headlamps parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Parts we have that go with this one

Most repairs need more than one part, and these came off the same area of the vehicle. Each has its own page, which says whether we have one in stock today.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

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