JAGUAR F-TYPE Coupe X152 Front Left Door Inner Water Shield EX53-21123-AC 2013

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JAGUAR F-TYPE Coupe X152 Front Left Door Inner Water Shield EX53-21123-AC 2013 - part number EX53-21123-AC

JAGUAR F-TYPE Coupe X152 Front Left Door Inner Water Shield EX53-21123-AC 2013 - part number EX53-21123-AC - view 2 JAGUAR F-TYPE Coupe X152 Front Left Door Inner Water Shield EX53-21123-AC 2013 - part number EX53-21123-AC - view 3 JAGUAR F-TYPE Coupe X152 Front Left Door Inner Water Shield EX53-21123-AC 2013 - part number EX53-21123-AC - view 4

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About part number EX53-21123-AC

A door inner water shield sits behind the interior door panel and forms a protective barrier over the metal inner door skin. Part of the vehicle bodywork and door assembly, it seals out moisture, road spray, and wind noise while directing water down through the door drainage holes. When it is intact and correctly sealed, the driver notices a dry cabin, carpet, and door card, with reduced road noise entering the interior.

To ensure this part is correct for your vehicle, check that the part number on your original item matches EX53-21123-AC or secondary number t2r2126. Manufacturers print or stamp these numbers directly onto the plastic or foam surface of the shield. Matching the exact part number is the only way to guarantee a correct fit, so do not rely on vehicle model or year details.

When fitting a replacement shield, you usually need fresh butyl sealing tape or adhesive cord to create a watertight bond against the door shell. These shields are typically replaced because the original material has torn during window regulator or lock repairs, or because degraded adhesive has allowed water to leak into the footwell.

  • Part type: Other Exterior Parts & Accessories.
  • Also numbered: t2r2126.

About this kind of part: doors

A door is a steel or aluminium shell made of an outer skin folded over an inner frame, with a reinforcement bar inside it. What arrives as a used door varies: a bare shell, a shell with the glass and the regulator still in it, or a complete door with the trim panel, the speaker, the lock and the wiring. The hinges, the check strap, the mirror and the handles are separate parts that may or may not come with it. A tailgate or boot lid is the same kind of part at the back of the car.

Why people replace one

  • A collision has creased the skin, and a crease in a folded edge cannot be pulled out to a paintable finish.
  • Rust has started along the bottom edge or around the lower corners, which is where water sits inside the shell.
  • The window regulator or the lock has failed and replacing the whole door is cheaper than the parts and the labour.
  • A door has been keyed or scraped the full length and will need more filler than a replacement skin would.
  • Aluminium corrosion has blistered the paint, which happens where an aluminium door has been repaired with steel fasteners.

Fitting it

  • A door comes off at the hinges, and most need the hinge bolts marked before they are slackened so the gaps can be found again.
  • Doors are heavy and awkward. A second person or a stand makes the difference between an easy job and a damaged edge.
  • The wiring runs through a rubber boot into the pillar. Release the connector inside the car rather than pulling the loom through.
  • Gaps and the closing line are set at the hinges and at the striker, and are worth setting before the door is painted.
  • A door is supplied in primer or in its original colour, and a matching finish needs the paint code from the car's own identification plate.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number. Front and rear doors differ, the two sides differ, and a three-door and a five-door shell of the same model are different parts.
  • Check what is included and what is not. A bare shell needs the glass, the regulator, the lock, the trim and the wiring moved across from your own door.
  • Check the material. A steel door and an aluminium door for the same model exist on some cars, and they take different fasteners and different repair methods.
  • Compare the openings: a mirror mount, a keyhole, and the cut-outs for a handle or a sensor differ between trim levels.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — Stamped or on a label on the inner frame, often near a hinge or inside the lower edge.
B Hinge mounts — The faces the hinges bolt to. Check the threads are clean and the metal around them is not distorted.
C Lower edge — The folded seam along the bottom, inside and out. This is where rust begins and where a photograph taken from above will not show it.
D What is fitted inside — Whether the glass, the regulator, the lock and the loom are still in the shell. This changes the job completely.
E Mirror and handle openings — The cut-outs for the mirror, the handle and any sensor. Compare them with your own door.
F Skin surface — Look along the panel at a shallow angle rather than straight at it. A crease or a ripple shows in a raking light and disappears in a flat one.

This section describes doors parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

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