LR RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 2.0H Front Left Curved Control Arm JPLA-3C257-CC 2021

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LR RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 2.0H Front Left Curved Control Arm JPLA-3C257-CC 2021 - part number JPLA-3C257-CC

LR RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 2.0H Front Left Curved Control Arm JPLA-3C257-CC 2021 - part number JPLA-3C257-CC - view 2 LR RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 2.0H Front Left Curved Control Arm JPLA-3C257-CC 2021 - part number JPLA-3C257-CC - view 3 LR RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 2.0H Front Left Curved Control Arm JPLA-3C257-CC 2021 - part number JPLA-3C257-CC - view 4

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About part number JPLA-3C257-CC

A front curved control arm is a vital component of the vehicle suspension system. It connects the wheel hub assembly to the main chassis, helping to guide the movement of the wheel over bumps while keeping the steering geometry correct. When this component is working properly, the driver experiences smooth, stable handling, precise steering response, and even tyre wear.

To ensure this component is correct for your vehicle, you must check the part number stamped directly onto the metal body or mounting bush of your existing unit. Match your original number precisely to JPLA-3C257-CC, as this exact number determines whether the component will fit your vehicle. Do not rely on vehicle model names or manufacturing years.

These components are usually replaced when the integrated rubber bushes split or the ball joint wears out, causing knocking noises, vague steering, or uneven tyre wear. When fitting a replacement control arm on the left-hand side, technicians commonly install new mounting bolts and locknuts, and usually carry out a full wheel alignment afterwards.

  • Part type: Control Arms, Ball Joints & Assemblies.
  • Specification: country of origin Germany.
  • Position on the vehicle: Left.

About this kind of part: control arms and wishbones

A control arm, or wishbone, is the link that locates a wheel to the body while letting it move up and down. It carries bushes at the body end and usually a ball joint at the wheel end, and those three things - the arm, the bushes and the joint - decide how a car steers, how it wears its tyres and whether it holds an alignment. On many cars the bushes and the joint are pressed in and not separately replaceable, which is why the whole arm is the part that gets sold.

Why people replace one

  • A knock or a clonk over bumps and at low speed, which is the classic sign of a worn bush or a loose ball joint.
  • The alignment will not hold, or the tyres wear unevenly on their inner or outer shoulder.
  • An inspection has advised on a split bush or a torn ball joint boot.
  • The steering feels vague or wanders, or the car pulls under braking.
  • A pothole or a kerb strike has bent the arm, which cannot be straightened because the alloy ones crack and the steel ones lose their heat treatment.

Fitting it

  • The car must be supported properly on axle stands, and the suspension is usually unloaded on a jack under the hub before anything is slackened.
  • Bush bolts are tightened with the suspension at its normal ride height, not hanging. Tightened hanging, the bush is twisted for the rest of its life and fails early.
  • The fasteners are commonly stretch bolts and single-use. Check the figures and whether new bolts are needed before starting.
  • The car needs a four-wheel alignment afterwards. This is not optional - an arm sets the geometry, and a car driven out of alignment eats a set of tyres.
  • This is a safety-critical part of the car. If there is any doubt, have it fitted by a workshop.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number. Arms differ between the two sides, between front and rear, and often between an ordinary and a sports suspension on the same model.
  • Check which joints are included. Some arms are sold with the ball joint and the bushes already pressed in, and some are a bare casting.
  • Compare the eye spacing and the bolt diameters with your own arm. A model with air suspension or adaptive dampers often takes a different arm entirely.
  • Look at the material. A steel pressing and an aluminium casting exist for the same position on some cars and they are not interchangeable.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — Stamped or cast into the arm, often on the underside near a bush eye.
B Bushes — The rubber at the body end. Look for splits, for rubber squeezed out of the collar, and for any sign it has been turning in its housing.
C Ball joint and boot — The joint at the wheel end and the rubber boot over it. A torn boot lets grit in and the joint will not last.
D Arm body — Look along the arm rather than at it. A bend from a pothole is obvious down the length and invisible straight on.
E Eye spacing and bolt sizes — The distance between the mounting eyes and the diameter of each. This is what decides whether it fits your car.
F Corrosion — The state of the metal around the bush collars and the joint housing, which is where a steel arm fails.

This section describes control arms and wishbones parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Parts we have that go with this one

Most repairs need more than one part, and these came off the same area of the vehicle. Each has its own page, which says whether we have one in stock today.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

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