Range Rover Velar L560 Tailgate Boot Lid 2017 ON J8A2-40010-B Genuine

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Range Rover Velar L560 Tailgate Boot Lid 2017 ON J8A2-40010-B Genuine - part number J8A240010B

Range Rover Velar L560 Tailgate Boot Lid 2017 ON J8A2-40010-B Genuine - part number J8A240010B - view 2 Range Rover Velar L560 Tailgate Boot Lid 2017 ON J8A2-40010-B Genuine - part number J8A240010B - view 3 Range Rover Velar L560 Tailgate Boot Lid 2017 ON J8A2-40010-B Genuine - part number J8A240010B - view 4

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About part number J8A240010B

A tailgate boot lid forms the rear closure of the vehicle body and protects the luggage compartment from weather and theft. Connected to the main bodyshell by hinges and supported by gas struts, it opens upwards to give access to the boot space. When the tailgate is working correctly, it shuts securely into the latch mechanism, seals neatly against the body aperture, and keeps wind noise and rain out of the cabin.

To ensure this is the correct part for your vehicle, you must check the part number stamped directly on your original component. Look for J8A240010B or the related number 12102277PANEL, which are typically found stamped or printed on the inner metal frame, near the lower latch area, or close to the hinge mounts. Matching the part number on your existing unit is the only way to confirm exact compatibility before ordering.

Tailgate boot lids are usually replaced after sustaining rear-end impact damage, severe panel denting, or structural corrosion around the lower edges and drainage holes. When replacing a tailgate, you often need associated hardware such as replacement mounting bolts, weatherseal rubbers, gas lift struts, or fresh wiring harness grommets. Note that this replacement panel requires a respray to match your vehicle colour before final fitting.

  • Part type: Other Exterior Parts & Accessories.
  • Specification: colour NEED RESPRAY.
  • Position on the vehicle: Rear.
  • Also numbered: 12102277PANEL.

About this kind of part: doors

A door is a steel or aluminium shell made of an outer skin folded over an inner frame, with a reinforcement bar inside it. What arrives as a used door varies: a bare shell, a shell with the glass and the regulator still in it, or a complete door with the trim panel, the speaker, the lock and the wiring. The hinges, the check strap, the mirror and the handles are separate parts that may or may not come with it. A tailgate or boot lid is the same kind of part at the back of the car.

Why people replace one

  • A collision has creased the skin, and a crease in a folded edge cannot be pulled out to a paintable finish.
  • Rust has started along the bottom edge or around the lower corners, which is where water sits inside the shell.
  • The window regulator or the lock has failed and replacing the whole door is cheaper than the parts and the labour.
  • A door has been keyed or scraped the full length and will need more filler than a replacement skin would.
  • Aluminium corrosion has blistered the paint, which happens where an aluminium door has been repaired with steel fasteners.

Fitting it

  • A door comes off at the hinges, and most need the hinge bolts marked before they are slackened so the gaps can be found again.
  • Doors are heavy and awkward. A second person or a stand makes the difference between an easy job and a damaged edge.
  • The wiring runs through a rubber boot into the pillar. Release the connector inside the car rather than pulling the loom through.
  • Gaps and the closing line are set at the hinges and at the striker, and are worth setting before the door is painted.
  • A door is supplied in primer or in its original colour, and a matching finish needs the paint code from the car's own identification plate.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number. Front and rear doors differ, the two sides differ, and a three-door and a five-door shell of the same model are different parts.
  • Check what is included and what is not. A bare shell needs the glass, the regulator, the lock, the trim and the wiring moved across from your own door.
  • Check the material. A steel door and an aluminium door for the same model exist on some cars, and they take different fasteners and different repair methods.
  • Compare the openings: a mirror mount, a keyhole, and the cut-outs for a handle or a sensor differ between trim levels.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — Stamped or on a label on the inner frame, often near a hinge or inside the lower edge.
B Hinge mounts — The faces the hinges bolt to. Check the threads are clean and the metal around them is not distorted.
C Lower edge — The folded seam along the bottom, inside and out. This is where rust begins and where a photograph taken from above will not show it.
D What is fitted inside — Whether the glass, the regulator, the lock and the loom are still in the shell. This changes the job completely.
E Mirror and handle openings — The cut-outs for the mirror, the handle and any sensor. Compare them with your own door.
F Skin surface — Look along the panel at a shallow angle rather than straight at it. A crease or a ripple shows in a raking light and disappears in a flat one.

This section describes doors parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

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