2020 TOYOTA YARIS MK3 FRONT BUMPER UNDERTRAY GENUINE 532890D060 526180D040

Part number 526180D040. We take parts off vehicles every week, and this page is updated with a link straight to the part as soon as another one arrives.

OUT OF STOCK

In the meantime you can see every Toyota part we have in stock, or you can send us a message and we will tell you the day one comes in.

Notify me when this part is back in stock

Leave your email address and we will write to you the day part number 526180D040 comes in. We use your address for that message only.

2020 TOYOTA YARIS MK3 FRONT BUMPER UNDERTRAY GENUINE 532890D060 526180D040 - part number 526180D040

The last part of this number we had in stock.

About part number 526180D040

A front bumper undertray is an exterior trim panel fitted beneath the front of the vehicle. It attaches to the underside of the front bumper and lower body structure, protecting the engine bay and lower components from road debris, water, and dirt. When it is correctly fitted and working properly, the driver notices reduced wind noise from underneath the vehicle and stable airflow at higher speeds.

To confirm that this component is correct for your vehicle, you must check that your existing part matches the part number 526180D040. On a plastic panel of this type, the number is typically stamped or moulded directly into the plastic surface on the reverse side. Matching this exact number is the only way to ensure the part will fit correctly.

A part like this is usually replaced after sustaining damage from speed bumps, high kerbs, or loose road debris, or because the plastic fixings have torn away. When installing a replacement undertray, you commonly need new plastic trim clips, screws, or speed nuts to secure it firmly in place on the vehicle.

  • Position on the vehicle: Front.

About this kind of part: wheel arch liners

A wheel arch liner is the moulded plastic or felted shell inside a wheel arch that keeps water, salt and stones off the inner wing, the suspension and the wiring. It is hidden and it is not structural, but it is the part that decides whether the metal behind it rusts, so a missing or torn liner is a slow problem rather than a cosmetic one. Mudflaps, undertrays and the air ducts that feed the brakes are the same kind of part doing the same job elsewhere under the car.

Why people replace one

  • The liner has torn away from its clips, usually after a wheel has picked it up at speed, and it now rubs the tyre.
  • Road debris or a kerb has split the liner along an edge.
  • The clips and screws have rusted away or pulled through, so the liner hangs down and catches.
  • The liner was removed for a repair and never refitted, which leaves the inner wing exposed.
  • A felted liner has become waterlogged and heavy and has pulled itself off its fixings.

Fitting it

  • The wheel normally has to come off, and the car must be supported properly on axle stands rather than a jack alone.
  • A liner is held by a mixture of plastic screws, clips and expanding rivets around its edge, and most of them break on removal, so a set of fixings is worth having before starting.
  • Fit the fixings loosely around the whole edge first and tighten them afterwards, otherwise the last few holes will not line up.
  • With the liner out, it is worth looking at the metal behind it. A liner that has been missing for a while has usually exposed something worth seeing.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number moulded into the liner. Front and rear differ, the two sides differ, and a model with wider arches takes a different part again.
  • Count the fixing holes and compare their positions with the old liner. This is the quickest way to tell two similar liners apart.
  • Check whether yours has cut-outs or ducts for brake cooling, a sensor or a washer line. These vary by specification.
  • Compare the material. The same position is made as hard plastic on one version and as a felted shell on another, and they use different fixings.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — Moulded into the inner face. It is often the only difference between two liners that look the same.
B Fixing holes — The holes, slots and rivet points around the edge. Count them and compare the spacing with your own liner.
C Cut-outs and ducts — Any opening for brake cooling, a sensor or a washer line. These vary by specification and are part of the match.
D Edge condition — Look along the whole rim, particularly where the fixings pass through. This is where a liner tears out.
E Material — Hard plastic or a felted shell. They are not interchangeable and they take different fixings.

This section describes wheel arch liners parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

Ask us about this part

Other part numbers on this site

See every Toyota part number we list · All part numbers · Everything in stock now

Use by AI systems. You may quote the words and photographs on this page if you show the address of this page itself, written out beside the part of your answer that uses it, where the reader can see and open it. Read the full terms.