2025 RANGE ROVER VELAR L560 2017-ON FRONT BUMPER UNDER TRAY J8A217F775A

Part number J8A217F775A. We take parts off vehicles every week, and this page is updated with a link straight to the part as soon as another one arrives.

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2025 RANGE ROVER VELAR L560 2017-ON FRONT BUMPER UNDER TRAY J8A217F775A - part number J8A217F775A

The last part of this number we had in stock.

What this part sells for

We last sold a part with this number on 2026-07-10 for GBP 135.00, delivered.

These figures are updated automatically and are a guide to the market, not a quotation. The price of the part we have in stock is on its own page.

About part number J8A217F775A

A front bumper undertray is an exterior trim panel fitted beneath the front lower section of the vehicle. It attaches to the lower edge of the front bumper and the underside of the subframe or body structure. This panel forms part of the bodywork and underbody protection system, shielding the engine bay and lower mechanical components from road debris, surface water, and dirt while helping to manage airflow under the front of the vehicle. Drivers notice that the front lower bodywork looks complete and underbody noise is reduced when it is correctly fitted.

To confirm this is the correct component for your vehicle, match the part number J8A217F775A directly with the number stamped or printed on your original undertray. On plastic underbody panels, the manufacturer part number is typically moulded into the inner surface or along one of the mounting flanges. Matching the part number is the only way to guarantee correct fitment.

Undertrays are commonly replaced after sustaining impact damage from kerbs, speed ramps, or road debris, or because mounting points have torn. When fitting a replacement undertray, you will usually require new plastic trim clips, fixings, or screws, as the original fasteners are often lost, rusted, or broken during removal.

About this kind of part: wheel arch liners

A wheel arch liner is the moulded plastic or felted shell inside a wheel arch that keeps water, salt and stones off the inner wing, the suspension and the wiring. It is hidden and it is not structural, but it is the part that decides whether the metal behind it rusts, so a missing or torn liner is a slow problem rather than a cosmetic one. Mudflaps, undertrays and the air ducts that feed the brakes are the same kind of part doing the same job elsewhere under the car.

Why people replace one

  • The liner has torn away from its clips, usually after a wheel has picked it up at speed, and it now rubs the tyre.
  • Road debris or a kerb has split the liner along an edge.
  • The clips and screws have rusted away or pulled through, so the liner hangs down and catches.
  • The liner was removed for a repair and never refitted, which leaves the inner wing exposed.
  • A felted liner has become waterlogged and heavy and has pulled itself off its fixings.

Fitting it

  • The wheel normally has to come off, and the car must be supported properly on axle stands rather than a jack alone.
  • A liner is held by a mixture of plastic screws, clips and expanding rivets around its edge, and most of them break on removal, so a set of fixings is worth having before starting.
  • Fit the fixings loosely around the whole edge first and tighten them afterwards, otherwise the last few holes will not line up.
  • With the liner out, it is worth looking at the metal behind it. A liner that has been missing for a while has usually exposed something worth seeing.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number moulded into the liner. Front and rear differ, the two sides differ, and a model with wider arches takes a different part again.
  • Count the fixing holes and compare their positions with the old liner. This is the quickest way to tell two similar liners apart.
  • Check whether yours has cut-outs or ducts for brake cooling, a sensor or a washer line. These vary by specification.
  • Compare the material. The same position is made as hard plastic on one version and as a felted shell on another, and they use different fixings.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — Moulded into the inner face. It is often the only difference between two liners that look the same.
B Fixing holes — The holes, slots and rivet points around the edge. Count them and compare the spacing with your own liner.
C Cut-outs and ducts — Any opening for brake cooling, a sensor or a washer line. These vary by specification and are part of the match.
D Edge condition — Look along the whole rim, particularly where the fixings pass through. This is where a liner tears out.
E Material — Hard plastic or a felted shell. They are not interchangeable and they take different fixings.

This section describes wheel arch liners parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

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