2019 ON L663 LAND ROVER DEFENDER ENGINE UNDERTRAY L8B26E028AB

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2019 ON L663 LAND ROVER DEFENDER ENGINE UNDERTRAY L8B26E028AB - part number L8B26E028AB

2019 ON L663 LAND ROVER DEFENDER ENGINE UNDERTRAY L8B26E028AB - part number L8B26E028AB - view 2 2019 ON L663 LAND ROVER DEFENDER ENGINE UNDERTRAY L8B26E028AB - part number L8B26E028AB - view 3 2019 ON L663 LAND ROVER DEFENDER ENGINE UNDERTRAY L8B26E028AB - part number L8B26E028AB - view 4

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About part number L8B26E028AB

An engine undertray is a protective shield fitted underneath the engine bay on the front section of the vehicle chassis. It attaches to the underside of the bodywork and bumper to protect the engine, sump, and electrical components from road debris, surface water, and salt. When intact and properly secured, it prevents grime from building up on mechanical parts, reduces wind noise under the vehicle, and helps manage airflow through the cooling system.

To confirm that this is the correct component for your vehicle, you must check that your original undertray displays the exact part number L8B26E028AB. Part numbers on moulded plastic or composite undertrays are typically stamped or embossed directly onto the inner or outer surface of the panel. Matching this part number is the only way to guarantee correct fitment and hole alignment on your vehicle.

Undertrays are usually replaced after sustaining impact damage from road hazards, high kerbs, or loose debris, which can crack the panel or tear its mounting points. When fitting a replacement undertray, you will often need new fixings such as plastic trim clips, bolts, or speed nuts, as the original fasteners are frequently lost or damaged when the old shield breaks away.

  • Part type: Splash Guards & Mud Flaps.
  • Specification: model/series MK3 (L663) 2019 On S; reference: 639943; intended use Replacement Part; unit quantity 1; country of origin United Kingdom.
  • Position on the vehicle: Front.

About this kind of part: wheel arch liners

A wheel arch liner is the moulded plastic or felted shell inside a wheel arch that keeps water, salt and stones off the inner wing, the suspension and the wiring. It is hidden and it is not structural, but it is the part that decides whether the metal behind it rusts, so a missing or torn liner is a slow problem rather than a cosmetic one. Mudflaps, undertrays and the air ducts that feed the brakes are the same kind of part doing the same job elsewhere under the car.

Why people replace one

  • The liner has torn away from its clips, usually after a wheel has picked it up at speed, and it now rubs the tyre.
  • Road debris or a kerb has split the liner along an edge.
  • The clips and screws have rusted away or pulled through, so the liner hangs down and catches.
  • The liner was removed for a repair and never refitted, which leaves the inner wing exposed.
  • A felted liner has become waterlogged and heavy and has pulled itself off its fixings.

Fitting it

  • The wheel normally has to come off, and the car must be supported properly on axle stands rather than a jack alone.
  • A liner is held by a mixture of plastic screws, clips and expanding rivets around its edge, and most of them break on removal, so a set of fixings is worth having before starting.
  • Fit the fixings loosely around the whole edge first and tighten them afterwards, otherwise the last few holes will not line up.
  • With the liner out, it is worth looking at the metal behind it. A liner that has been missing for a while has usually exposed something worth seeing.

Making sure it is the right one

  • Match the part number moulded into the liner. Front and rear differ, the two sides differ, and a model with wider arches takes a different part again.
  • Count the fixing holes and compare their positions with the old liner. This is the quickest way to tell two similar liners apart.
  • Check whether yours has cut-outs or ducts for brake cooling, a sensor or a washer line. These vary by specification.
  • Compare the material. The same position is made as hard plastic on one version and as a felted shell on another, and they use different fixings.

What to look for in the photographs

A Part number — Moulded into the inner face. It is often the only difference between two liners that look the same.
B Fixing holes — The holes, slots and rivet points around the edge. Count them and compare the spacing with your own liner.
C Cut-outs and ducts — Any opening for brake cooling, a sensor or a washer line. These vary by specification and are part of the match.
D Edge condition — Look along the whole rim, particularly where the fixings pass through. This is where a liner tears out.
E Material — Hard plastic or a felted shell. They are not interchangeable and they take different fixings.

This section describes wheel arch liners parts in general. The numbers and the photographs above are this part.

Parts we have that go with this one

Most repairs need more than one part, and these came off the same area of the vehicle. Each has its own page, which says whether we have one in stock today.

Free next-day delivery in the United Kingdom Sent with DPD on a tracked, next-day service. Most mainland addresses are next day; the Highlands and Islands, Northern Ireland, the Channel Islands and the Isle of Man can take a day longer.

Returns Thirty days to change your mind, and we pay the return postage in the United Kingdom and Germany.

Trade and VAT C.E.J Haime Group Limited is VAT registered in England and Wales, and every order comes with a full VAT invoice.

Not sure it is the right part? Send us your registration or VIN and we will check this part number against your own vehicle before you buy.

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